Видео

I will take a measurement for you on the weekend

Total length 152mm M11 thread: 36mm 7/16 thread: 24mm

@@DarkePeak Thank you, it looks like the ARP stud used is ATP5.975-2B (Total length: 151.765 mm)

Hmmm, an alternative might be ARP ATP5.950-2LUB (Total length: 151.130 mm), this also have longer threads.

I was scratching my head why the 24 thou feeler on one set slid straight through but the 24 thou on a different set didn’t fit. I’ve lived my whole life presuming they are all accurate.

@@DarkePeak As we all have, trust your micrometer ;-)

There's a comment from the seller that offers some insight. Should be the first comment.

Wow! That’d be great. Please send me an email with your contact details so we can discuss: in54ne.aus@gmail.com

@@DarkePeakno need. This epoxy actually is Nordbak Loctite. It’s for backing machinery. It enters a glass transition phase and softens at the temps your coolant sees. So this one works well in aluminum. There are a few others used in aluminum but I haven’t figured out the “high end” one. I did use this stuff in my sleeved block

@@DarkePeakalso it’s good that this one is softened. You don’t want some epoxy that’s hard and rigid. If the epoxy doesn’t expand as fast as the aluminum (which is not easy to find), then the aluminum would crack and break. That’s what happens when you concrete fill an aluminum block. Instead softening helps to support the aluminum, and importantly helps with vibration. It’s the vibration that kills the more open deck modern aluminum blocks. Even if you welded a block solid, you can get cracking just from residual stress. So you want the epoxy to play nice with the aluminum, while supporting it

What you saw it being harder to break when you boiled it and it was still hot, is just as you said it became tougher. Counter intuitively, toughness comes from a softened core in metals for example. It just allows the material to take more stress before breaking

do you have data on the strength at 100°C?

@@AKAtheA100c is well within operating temperature of the epoxy

@@GarianWraps what I was asking was more about how much support does the epoxy actually provide

@@AKAtheAup to 20,000psi

Yes, I also got stuffed around by the guy that created them - got part of the order quickly and a bogus tracking number for the missing items. I threatened to lodge a PayPal claim and it was resolved within a few weeks. The sales are now handled by another company (Jarvis Tuning and they have another name that I can’t remember), but they seem a bit more reputable.

I presume you are referring to the holes for the NS300L inserts. That kit comes with a locating dowel to centre the drilling guide over the existing hole. Shown about 1min40sec in this video. ruclips.net/video/NHy07sjwnCg/видео.htmlsi=ZTNMVGkEpNLls26a

I already drilled and put the inserts in. I’m talking about drilling the head and keeping g the head centered on the block

@@user-br2db8vx5t ok, I cover the head drilling part about 34 mins into that same video (to centre the 11mm hole drilled in the head). Then the M11 corner studs is going to centre the head on the block. ruclips.net/video/NHy07sjwnCg/видео.htmlsi=xaYhShFZyOSPOsGc

Which part of the world are you in? I thought the prices I paid in Australia for machine work (decking, facing, honing) was very reasonable, but the US$750 for replacing valve guides and cutting seats seemed less reasonable (but still acceptable).

Thanks 👍

After drilling, cutting, filing and hitting it (leftover piece) I have no concerns about the strength. The current world fastest N54 is an epoxy closed deck (8.16s 1/4 mile).

@@DarkePeak thanks for the info, this epoxy is def more user-friendly than aluminium paste

Thanks, what are your build plans?

Yes, I’m expecting some reasonable gains from changing the exhaust but they might only offset the increase from the oversize intercooler. Also deleting the power steering. The 6hp21 trans will be replaced with 8hp70 which might be slightly heavier.

Haha. Yes, just 3 days after Iran fired 300 drones and missiles.

Try searching for: fuel tank cover removal tool

I did dyno testing after but not before. But my bum dyno says they may give a little more power in the top end (high rpm)

Yes, but it’s a complicated process that needs to be done in an oil bath

@@DarkePeak i hope one day you can make it and share it with us. Thank you for your videos!

Yes, generally about 700-1000mL per 10,000km. Thats 0.07-0.10L/1,000km. I’m >90% long distance highway driving so oil consumption might be a bit higher if I did more short/city driving. My engine has about 180,000km on it now.

@@DarkePeak I get the same feeling that highway may consume bit more. My engine is only 100k km. I top 0.5L every 5000 km. My technician told me that it is due to low ash oil and low tension piston ring. if the overall consumption is below 0.2L/1000 no need to intervene.

Wow, your 335i has provided lots of inspiration and a benchmark to aim for. Your 1/4 mile 9.68s @ 140 is what I hope to achieve. I’ll be using RB TD04 19T turbos @ 30psi, Reflex+, E85, 8HP70, Ford 8.8, 15” Weld, etc. Anyway, to your question: I couldn’t get the car to a weigh bridge before I started so I’m carefully weighing everything I remove and add, then I’ll weigh it when finished and work out what it would have been to start with. I’m hoping to be close to 1400-1420kg (3100lb).

@@DarkePeak with your rear end and a 8hp trans you should be at 9.5 or lower at 30 psi, if you keep the weight down. Cant wait to see the results. Keep us posted.

Good question but it’s not feasible to drag race it at different stages of the build process. I will be drag racing it, but not until the build is finished. The engine was in a bad state (massive front main seal leak, turbo wastegate rattles, etc) so it wasn’t suitable to bolt on any upgrades without repairing those issues. I’m currently building the engine for 700whp and it would destroy the rest of the driveline if I attempted drag racing on the stock trans and diff. So they will also get upgraded before drag racing.

That was my first time doing it and I was filming the process, so it took about 4-6 hours. Removing and reinstalling the bucket assembly the second time took me about 2-3 hours.

Thanks!

Built engine, RB TD04 19T turbos @ 30psi, E85, supplementary port injection, etc. Maybe NOS.

@@DarkePeak spicy. I'll be following along 👍

Yes, pity nobody did a proper install video before now

What are they using now these days ?

@@ivana5172 the same NS300L

Haha. Good to have AI on my side

@@DarkePeak Never would have known that you lose cooling capacity. Almost did this, it sucks because I just installed the Aluminum Automatic CSF Radiator. My DCT temps are reaching 205 degrees.

Thanks, I wasn’t intending to make it but I realised there was a lack of detailed info available on the process

They are a very worthy upgrade and probably pushing the safe limit of an unopened N54 (when running E85 and 24psi). They are fitted to my Z4 35i which currently holds the world records for any BMW Z car for 0-60mph (2.84s), 0-100kmh (3.00s) and 1/4 mile (10.58s). I’m so happy with RB I’m building another N54 car (335i) with the RB Game Finisher 19T’s. The engine internals will be upgraded to support 700-750whp.

@@DarkePeak That is great to hear. I am not looking at opening up the engine yet which is why the RB Twos Plus are appealing but there is a niggling part of me that wonders if the Game Finishers aren't the way to go. It would be great to hear how you go with them.

The dyno interface can only display 6 results on the screen at a time. The DCI results (and no filter results) were also 274wkw +/- 3wkw.

I haven’t seen or heard that before. I doubt it could be the fuel sensor